Costume designer Anju Modi discusses heritage, design philosophy, and the creative journey behind her latest contemporary-craft collection
Join us for an inspiring conversation with designer Anju Modi as she talks about her design roots, the Indian philosophy and motifs that guide her creative process, her approach to balancing heritage with modernity, and the creative flow behind her collaboration with Jaypore.
How has your journey as a traveller and thinker shaped your approach to design over the years?
I am so glad to be in Hyderabad again after many years. When I look back, I remember my early journeys to weaving centres like Gadwal, Venkatagiri, Narayanpet, Vijayawada and Uppada. Those trips were where I discovered, observed and truly learnt. They shaped me as a designer. I am deeply grateful to the artisans and weavers whose work has taught me so much. This time, I had the opportunity to create a collection that uses their craft in a contemporary, modern way while staying rooted in our woven heritage, motifs and culture. It's really the result of my travels and learning over the last 30 years.
What aspects of Indian philosophy or architecture most often influence your creative process?
Our culture has always been meditative and soulful. There was a strong spiritual thought process in everything people created -- from vegetable dyes to handwork and weaving. Even the motifs had deep meaning: the peacock, lotus, elephants, each symbolising peace, love, harmony and prosperity. These weren't just designs; they were vibrations woven into fabric. As a designer, I try to bring those motifs, those values and that ethos back into today's design language.
How do you balance preserving traditional craftsmanship with creating for a modern audience?
Today's lifestyle demands comfort -- people are moving, travelling, going to work. Clothing has to support that. So the challenge is to integrate our craft into silhouettes like tunics, jackets, trousers or long shirts, keeping them stylish and wearable. For me, it's about blending modernity with the soul of our heritage. The craft stays the hero, but in a way that feels natural and effortless in everyday life.
Can you share the creative dialogue behind your collaboration with Jaypore and how it shaped this collection?
When Jaypore approached me, I was delighted because our philosophies align so well. Their idea of "reclaim your roots" mirrors my own belief in staying inspired by heritage while evolving for the present. Together, we found a unified voice in creating this collection -- rooted, contemporary and meaningful. And this is just the beginning; there's much more to come.
Having designed for iconic films, how different is the storytelling through your festive and bridal collections?
Film costume design is a very different space. Everything depends on the story, the character and the emotional tone of a scene. You cannot use a vibrant colour in a moment of sadness, for instance. Each emotion -- romance, anger, sorrow -- influences the costume. In retail fashion, the storytelling is more occasion-driven. Whether it's Diwali, a festive gathering or a friend's wedding, the collection reflects the mood of the moment rather than a narrative arc.
In an era of fast fashion, what does 'quiet luxury' mean to you as a designer rooted in heritage?
For me, it's about subtle interpretation. A few thoughtfully placed hand-worked motifs can say so much -- you don't need to fill the entire surface. That balance, that quiet storytelling, is what I love. Colours, motifs and embroidery should support your lifestyle. They should make you feel comfortable, not overwhelmed. That's the core of my design philosophy.