Wednesday and United are in the Championship bottom three, but there is still optimism, humour and pride
Four days before the Sheffield derby, trade at the Hillsborough megastore is ticking over nicely. It was the subject of a boycott by Wednesday fans until a month ago but the decision by Dejphon Chansiri to place the club in administration brought them flocking back: £500,000 was turned over in a week.
Despite buckets catching drips from a leaky roof, supporters are stocking up on kits, bed linen, romper suits and lucky socks, all at 50% or more off.
Among the shoppers is Richard Pillinger. He has popped out for lunch after a morning leading the team stripping the stadium of the hundreds of seats installed by Chansiri in the North Stand that spelled out the reviled former owner's name. The job requires ripping out bolts, lugging seating up the stand, then doing the whole thing again with replacements.
Pillinger, preparing the stadium for Sunday, describes it as "back-breaking work", but is more keen to talk about the price of fertiliser. This is because Pillinger is also the chair of Hallam FC, who play at Sandygate, the oldest football ground in the world.
"Hallam were the first club to have their players wear black armbands, they were the first club to use a coin toss to start a game," he says, running through their many landmarks.
They are also in possession of the oldest football trophy, the Youdan Cup, first awarded in 1867 and evaluated by Antiques Roadshow a decade ago as being worth £100,000. This summer, the Youdan Cup was contested again, by Hallam and Sheffield FC, the latter acknowledged by Fifa as the oldest existing football club in the world.
Hallam won on penalties after a 2-2 draw in front of 1,650. "We had loads of people come over for the game, especially from Germany," Pillinger says. "They came over and 'sofa-surfed'
To talk football in Sheffield feels like stumbling over an unending, and sometimes obscure, succession of firsts. The city codified the first set of football rules (later supplanted by the London-devised code of the Football Association). But given that its two biggest clubs, Wednesday and United, languish at the foot of the Championship, there is a belief among some that it may be time for the city to assert its identity as the home of football a little more forcefully.
The leader of Sheffield city council, Tom Hunt, is one of these. "Part of the reason I put myself forward for election was because, as a resident of the city, I felt frustrated we weren't shouting enough about the amazing things we have achieved," he says. "But it's changing. In the last few years, there is a renewed confidence and optimism, that we're acting and thinking like the major core city that we are, the fourth-largest city in England and a global city.
"The football story is a part of this. It's time we started to be more confident in telling our story about who we are. It's not about looking back, it's about saying this city has always inspired and it always will."
To commemorate its football heritage, Sheffield has started rolling out blue plaques. One was recently unveiled to commemorate Gordon Banks in the Abbeydale neighbourhood where he was born, and a football hub was opened in his name (there are 18 such hubs in England, prioritising spaces for women and girls, but they began in Sheffield, another first). Local campaigners regularly lobby Unesco for world heritage site status but it appears there has long been something in the Sheffield character that means civic pride stays local.
"Fans in Sheffield are aware of the football history; what they don't do is celebrate it," says James O'Hara. A local entrepreneur, he is in the bar of his Irish pub, Fagan's, and talking Sheffield culture with fans from both side of the derby divide (Wednesday v United, not Hallam v Sheffield).
The musician, playwright and Wednesdayite Joe Carnall attributes this characteristic to history and the city's industrial roots. "Liverpool and Manchester, they ran ports," he says. "You had to be charming and outward looking to do that. To say: 'We want you to come and bring your goods into our port,' you have to be salespeople.
"We just made something amazing and you had to come to us to get it. 'If you want the best steel in the world, you know where we are.' That were it."
Carnall notes that this characteristic manifests itself differently between supporter groups. "United fans would call it arrogance, I might call it delusion, but Wednesday fans think we deserve better," he says. "We think we are better than our current status. And we probably think there's 10 or 15 top clubs in the country - that we belong in that little clique."
This persists despite Wednesday having last competed in the Premier League in 2000, not won a Steel City derby in 13 years and not scored in one since 2017.
The characteristic attitude of United fans, according to the photographer and Blade Rob Nicholson, is almost inverted, despite spending three of the past six seasons in the Premier League. "There's this line that goes around amongUnited fans that you should always stay until the final whistle so you don't get caught in the match traffic," he jokes. "With us, no matter how well we do, there's always this sense that something is going to go wrong in a minute.
"We're natural pessimists. Like in the playoff final, when we heard they were going to use VAR, of course something was going to go against us. Because why wouldn't it?"
The video assistant referee's decision to overturn a second United goal against Sunderland at Wembley in May, with the Blades going on to lose 2-1, could be regarded as the beginning of the spiral that has led to Chris Wilder being sacked, then reappointed, on the club's way to a place in the Championship relegation zone.
They face a Wednesday side on -4 points, thanks to administration, but one with reasons to be optimistic. The administrator, Begbies Traynor, expects to receive up to half a dozen official bids for the club by the soft deadline of this weekend, with the hope of entering exclusive negotiations with a prospective owner by 5 December.
One of the administrators, Paul Stanley, says: "Could you see Sheffield Wednesday being a long-term Premier League club? Yeah, it's not a joke, is it. This is a real sleeping giant, with massive potential."
From Stanley's point of view one of the selling points has been the actions of the fans, who boycotted the last match of the Chansiri era against Middlesbrough en masse but have since returned in their droves. "It's been brilliant because what you're buying is a brand and the brand really is the fanbase," he says.
"On Sunday, it's a sellout, give or take, and if you can do that when you're bottom of the table, playing another team near the bottom of the table, just think what you could do on a Champions League night in 20 years' time."
That is some exemplary Wednesdayite-ish thinking right there. The Blades in Fagan's, meanwhile, have started having nightmares about the match, with Carlos Tevez appearing off the bench to score the winner. "If you ask pretty much every fan in the city today, if you could fast forward and end it 0-0 on Sunday afternoon, they'd say: 'Brilliant,'" Nicholson says. "They're horrible things, designed to be unenjoyable, aren't they? Twelve o'clock on a Sunday, forcing down a beer at quarter to 10 ..."
But for all the grousing and mutual abuse - they call the other support "pigs", an apparent reference to the beginning of steel production and pig iron, though no one can say for sure - the football fans of Sheffield have more in common than anything that divides them. That includes respect for Wilder for what he has given to the city, however provocative he may be on occasion, and an understanding that what Chansiri did to Wednesday in failing to pay staff went beyond the pale.
With Wednesdayites and Blades sharing every office space, coffee queue and pub lounge, the chance for dialogue and mockery continues and so, therefore, does Sheffield's football culture. It may even have acquired an additional power.
"There's not many spaces now where I feel I can go and hang out and see all my friends and be a part of a community that I feel connected to," says O'Hara. "In my normal life I have to be quite rational. With Sheffield Wednesday, I am utterly irrational. And it's quite freeing."