If there's one thing I don't love about skiing, it's the concrete jungle resorts that have sprouted up to absorb the huge numbers of snow hunters who descend on the mountains every winter.
Some of these 1960s-built brutalist constructions, which have mushroomed incongruously within the most stunning of natural wildernesses, are the very definition of soullessness.
At the other end of the resort spectrum is Megève. Nestled at the foot of the Mont-Blanc massif, this French village resort is a culturally-rich and architecturally beautiful winter playground.
Megève was for centuries a thriving agricultural hub until, in the early 20th century, its farmers awoke to its potential as a winter sports destination. They began to build and test some of France's very first ski lifts and the village hosted its first ever ski competition in 1914.
While it has grown to become one of the most convenient access points to a sprawling 400km ski area facing Mont Blanc, Megève remains a charming destination in itself. The village's famous square is dominated by an exquisite 18th century bell tower, its streets a labyrinth of shops, cafes and restaurants.
One of the best-known places to stay in this magical village is the five-star Grand Hôtel Soleil d'Or. Dating back to 1901, it is Megève's oldest hotel, and quite possibly its most beautiful.
Here's what you need to know...
Grand Hôtel Soleil d'Or is located in the heart of Megève, on Rue Charles Feige. The village's ski school is a five minute walk away and 500 metres from the nearest chair lift. The hotel provides direct access to the Evasion Mont Blanc ski area.
The fourth largest in France, it is perfect for beginners and intermediate skiers and includes the resorts of Saint Gervais, Saint Nicolas de Véroce, Combloux and La Giettaz, as well as Megève. The nearest airport is Geneva, an hour's drive away.
The hotel decor combines the traditional charm of the Haute-Savoie region with modern elegance. A comforting timelessness is underpinned by the use of age-old materials: natural stone floor tiles, pine log panelling, a crackling fire in the lounge -- while the upcycled furniture, colourful tartans, plaids, books and quirky artwork offer a certain cosy charm.
The hotel's 29 rooms are set between the historic main building and three chalets, Le Pionnier, Les Trois Champions and La Benne Rouge. Each of the hotel's rooms and suites offer extraordinary views of the Alps.
I stayed in Chalet Les Trois Champions - named in tribute to Megeve's famous Olympians, the Duvillard family, which blended ultra-chic seventies flair with elegant gold accents.
The four-bedroom chalet sleeps up to eight guests and also features a beautiful ground-floor living room with fireplace, fully equipped kitchen and dining room and private terrace.
The comfort factor is ramped up even further at the hotel's restaurant, La Fromagerie, where traditional Savoyard classics like raclette and fondue are the order of the day. A big draw for visitors and locals alike is La Chocolaterie, where you can savour their hot chocolate in a variety of sweet and savoury flavours. It's an explosion of cocoa that, as you sip your mug next to the fireplace, will bring a glow to the cheeks.
A rooftop bar is nestled at the top of the hotel, inviting you to enjoy a drink or three with breathtaking views of the village and the mountains beyond. The bar's signature cocktails, in particular the personalised old fashioned with 12-year-old Macallan and a choice of bitters, are divine.
The hotel spa features a wellness area with a heated indoor swimming pool, sauna, hammam, and jacuzzi, along with three treatment cabins for one or two people. The range of treatments includes personalised scrubs and massages, as well as signature chocolate massages.
The town itself is an iconic winter sports destination. As well as access to more than 400km of ski slopes, it also offers three Nordic skiing areas, snowshoeing excursions, dog sledging, ice climbing and an Olympic ice rink.
In the summer, the snow gives way to green Alpine meadows, revealing numerous signposted trails for mountain biking, hiking, or trail running. Other activities available include hot-air ballooning, paragliding, canyoning and rafting.
La Chocolaterie is picture perfect and will bring your inner child to life. The retro ski lifts at Mont d'Arbois are the essence of Alpine cool, and the stunning views of Mont Blanc when you get off those lifts will take your breath away .
Stays at Grand Hotel Soleil d'Or start from £584 per night based on two guests sharing a deluxe room on a room only basis. The rate is based on stays in March 2025. For further information and to book. soleildor-megeve.com