SINGAPORE - For unforgettable wontons with a difference, Chuxin Wonton is worth a trip to Joo Chiat.
The 42-seat restaurant does not take reservations and fills up quickly on weekends when patience is needed - orders can take as long as 40 minutes during peak dining hours.
The reason for the long wait is that the husband-and-wife team - comprising Mr Liu Gong Ke, 41, and Ms Li Lei, 42 - is the only one preparing the food. Both hail from Qingdao and are fanatical about freshness. The wontons and dumplings are made to order, right down to the skins.
Using fresh ingredients such as pork and prawns - bought daily from a wet market - makes a remarkable difference, especially for those used to frozen meat and seafood.
The fillings have a natural, sweet meatiness without unpleasant odours. The Qingdao-style wontons have delicately thin skins that turn translucent when cooked.
Go for the Caviar, Shrimp And Pork Wonton Soup ($11.90 for 12), which features a clear broth simmered from fresh kampung chicken, topped with dried shrimp and omelette strips. While there is no actual caviar in the filling, shrimp roe provides a satisfying crunchy contrast to the meaty mix.
Century-egg lovers should order the Preserved Egg With Pork Wonton ($8.90 for 12), with an extra $1.60 to have it served in red chilli oil. The use of century egg in the filling is the creation of Ms Li, who has a weakness for the slightly pungent cured egg.
About a quarter of a century egg goes into each wonton, making it a tasty combination with pork. The red oil itself is made from two types of chillies - one chosen for its heat and the other for its fragrance - and Mr Liu uses premium peanut oil, which lends a nutty aroma to the mixture.
Guo tie (pan-fried dumplings) are worth the wait. The Whole Shrimp And Fresh Meat Fried Dumpling ($10.90 for five, $16.90 for eight), which resembles a prawn fritter in shape, features a filling of whole prawn and minced pork that is not fully sealed at both ends. Prawn tails are deliberately left on so diners can pick up the dumplings by hand and eat them that way.
The menu also offers jiao zi (dumplings). A perennial favourite is Fresh Chives With Pork Dumplings ($9.90 for 10), with the option to have it served in a Spicy Sour Soup Base (additional $1.60). While the redness of the soup suggests strong spice, the seasoning at Chuxin Wonton is more balanced than at most northern Chinese restaurants in Singapore, and the levels of spice and tang are moderate.
An item not to miss is the highly addictive Pork Collar Butt Skewer ($2.90 each). The marinated meat is grilled over medium-low heat till tender, then dusted with a dry seasoning blend of chilli powder and cumin.