GOES-18 satellite image showing a strong Pacific storm system 1,300 miles north of Hawaii on Dec. 21, 2024. (CIRA / RAAM-B)
The National Weather Service said satellite data is estimating seas as high as 65 feet near the storm centers, with a nearby buoy measuring 60-foot waves.
Forecast models indicate this fetch of waves is spreading south and will reach the north-facing shores of Niihau, Kauai, Oahu, Molokai and Maui on Sunday. Seas are expected to swell to 40-50 feet, prompting a High Surf Warning until Monday morning.
Even the west-facing shores of those islands will likely see surf reach 25-35 feet. Seas along the Big Island are expected around 8-12 feet.
The forecast for these massive waves in Hawaii prompted the organizers of The Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational, which KHON2 reports is the premier surfing event in the world, to schedule the event for Sunday.
According to KHON2, "The Eddie" competition requires consistent 40-foot or higher surf, which needs to arrive by 8 a.m. local time. If Sunday's event goes on as planned, it'll be only the 11th time it has happened since 1984.
"We are anticipating one of the biggest swells ever," contest director Liam McNamara said Saturday in a Facebook post. The surfing competition is held at Waimea Bay on the North Shore of Oahu.
"The prolonged duration of this active period will lead to coastal impacts, including significant beach erosion along exposed shorelines and potential overwash onto vulnerable coastal roadways and properties, especially during Sunday's peak," the National Weather Service warned.
The NWS also said to expect ocean water to surge and sweep across beaches, coastal benches and lava flows, creating the potential for impacts to coastal properties and infrastructure, including roadways. Powerful longshore and rip currents will be present at most beaches, making for dangerous swimming conditions.
The surf is expected to decrease on Monday and return to just "advisory" levels on Christmas Eve. But the storm pattern will remain quite active in the Pacific through the week.